by Karolina Szymankiewicz

Grunwald (‘Grünfelde’ in German) is a village located in the northern part of Poland, far from the Baltic Sea, squeezed between small hills and picturesque lakes. In the summer, green meadows and golden fields stretch all the way to the horizon, with a strand of forest looming in the distance. Although the place is ideal for a bike trip or a long walk in the countryside, hardly anyone comes here. Except for one day a year. For 25 years now, every 15 July, the roads leading to the fields of Grunwald have been packed with cars; stalls, tents and stands have been erected on the meadows; and crowds of historians, enthusiasts or simply families with children have come to this village to take part in a re-enactment of the famous medieval Battle of Grunwald.

Roots and historical value

The Battle of Grunwald was one of the largest armed clashes in medieval Europe in terms of the number of soldiers, taking place on 15 July 1410. The battle was fought between the armies of the Kingdom of Poland and the Duchy of Lithuania (about 29,000 armed men) and the army of the Teutonic Order (about 21,000 armed men). It was the culminating event of the Polish-Teutonic War that lasted from 1409 to 1411. The Teutonic army, supported by West European knights, was commanded by Grand Master Ulrich von Jungingen, while the Polish-Lithuanian-Russo-Tartar army was commanded by King Władysław Jagiełło and Lithuanian Duke Witold. Thanks to their strategy, the Polish-Lithuanian side achieved a spectacular victory. The course of the fighting and the most important moments preceding it were described in medieval texts. The most important of these is the Chronicle of the Conflict (1410), which was supposedly written by an eyewitness to the event. Another important source is the Historiae Polonicae Chronicle written down by Jan Długosz. He dedicated another work to the battle of Grunwald, a manuscript entitled Banderia Prutenorum containing illustrations and Latin descriptions of the Teutonic banners captured at Grunwald. A German source describing the battle is the Chronicle by Johann von Posilge.

These records were later used by artists, writers and poets who referred to this great event in their works. This became particularly important in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, during the period of Poland’s partition, when the country lost its independence for as many as 123 years. During this time, referring to moments of glory and victories in Polish history was a way of giving Poles hope of regaining their freedom and sovereignty. Among the most important works referring to the battle of 1410 is the historical novel Krzyżacy by Henryk Sienkiewicz, the Polish Nobel Prize winner in literature. Another work worth mentioning is the monumental painting by Jan Matejko, ‘Bitwa pod Grunwaldem [The Battle of Grunwald], now kept at the National Museum in Warsaw. Looking at the approximately 4 x 10 metre canvas, we can imagine the scale of this armed clash. Both of the above-mentioned works have a number of fictional and historically inconsistent motifs in them to impress the reader or viewer, but they have one more important element in common: the Battle of Grunwald, which has been given a distinct and very important role. The memory of the battle has become a form of national heritage and the artefacts associated with it are treated as cultural heritage which deserves special protection.

Heritage conservation and historical re-enactments

The former battlefield itself is directly protected. It is an area located two kilometres south east of the village of Grunwald. It includes meadows and woodland, a monument complex and the ruins of the battle chapel. On 17 September 2010, by decree of the President of the Republic of Poland, the area was declared a historical monument. The main purpose of giving the battlefield site this rank is to protect it and acknowledge its historical, spatial, material and immaterial values. For many years, objects commemorating the battle have been erected on the fields of Grunwald. The most important of these is the Grunwald Monument, also known as the Grunwald Victory Monument, which consists of three parts — a granite obelisk, eleven 30-metre-high masts symbolising the banners of the Polish and Lithuanian-Ruthenian flags, and an amphitheatre with the Grunwald Battle Museum. This structure was erected on the 550th anniversary of the battle. Aside from this, the battlefield features the ruins of the battle chapel, the remains of the Grunwald Monument from Krakow (demolished by the Nazis in 1939), the so-called Jungingen Stone and the Jagiello Mound raised by scouts from the Polish Scouting Association (Związek Harcerstwa Polskiego) in 1959.

Although Poland regained its independence in 1918, nowadays the battle itself, and more broadly the whole medieval period, the colourful culture of fortified castles and knightly tournaments, is still valued and generates lively interest in a large part of society. The last twenty years in particular have seen an interesting phenomenon in the creation of historical medieval reconstructions. They often attract groups of enthusiasts and professional historians, whose activities refer to the widely understood medieval period. However, they are not very faithful to the facts, creating a colourful vision of the Middle Ages rather than presenting an accurate picture of it. Historical reconstructions are popular tourist attractions, often attracting crowds of enthusiasts or families with children. The season for medieval reconstructions begins in Poland in May and lasts throughout the summer. They take place in preserved or significantly ruined Teutonic castles, primarily in Warmia, Mazury, Kuyavia and Pomerania. Interestingly, they usually take the form of festivals, during which visitors can see various shows and tournaments,take part in prepared attractions and games, buy souvenirs at dozens of arts and crafts stalls or taste dishes inspired by medieval cuisine. Dozens of re-enactments are planned every year in various locations, but the largest and most famous is the re-enactment of the Battle of Grunwald.

“Medieval” Grunwald Days — knights and tournaments, tourist attractions and staging the great battle

The re-enactment of the Grunwald battle is the culmination of a larger event known as the Grunwald Days. It lasts five days and consists of several carefully planned parts with a specific course of events. This is when, for example, knightly and archery tournaments, demonstrations of ancient crafts, music concerts, and various workshops (e.g. Gregorian choir workshops) take place. These are accompanied by other attractions, such as stalls selling souvenirs, handicrafts, costumes and jewellery stylised after the Middle Ages. Visitors can see, for example, the work of shoemakers, glassmakers, carpenters or monks scribbling Latin sentences on dried parchment. Nearby, there is a specially designated gastronomic area where attendees can taste dishes inspired by mediaeval menus, including the famous ‘pajda with lard’.

Traditionally, the event begins on Wednesday with knightly tournaments. The first to take place are the archery tournaments, which can be seen in the eastern part of the Grunwald fields, where the terrain caves in, creating a natural amphitheatre. In the tournament square, which is part of the so-called ‘Grodzisko Historyczne’ [Historical Castle], combat tournaments take place, which, due to the number of participants, are often referred to as unofficial Polish Championships. Participants dress up in armour and chainmail, grab a reconstructed weapon and enter into a duel. These championships are divided into two categories: the first is called the Tournament for the Silver Sword of Grunwald (for beginners), while the second is called the Tournament for the Golden Sword of Grunwald (for the winners of the previous four years). This is followed by a tournament in which women take part (also in full battle dress). The day ends with the International Medieval Ball Tournament, the so-called

‘Grundial’ (from the word ‘Mundial’). Here, the ball is a large sack filled with rags, which the team must roll into the opponent’s goals.

The next day begins with a mass in the Grand Master’s camp, celebrated in Latin according to a manuscript from 1410. The Grand Master’s camp (historically, he was the head of the entire Teutonic Order) is where the re-enactors stay, trying to imitate the daily customs of people in the Middle Ages. There is also a field chapel of the Teutonic Knights, where the aforementioned Gregorian choir workshops are held every morning and Mass is celebrated. This is followed by the preliminaries for the next knightly tournament, the Championship of the One-Handed Sword for the Silver Belt of Grunwald, which continues for several hours into the evening. An additional attraction here is the musical performances, aimed at encouraging the participants to fight. Day two is also the time to take part in medieval games and activities. The re-enactors try to recreate their actual medieval form as closely as possible. The day ends with group sword fights, giving a foretaste of the great battle.

Day three of the events on the fields of Grunwald begins with Mass. The Polish Historical Chess Championships are also held on this day. Their rules are based on 14th-century treatises by Jakub Cessolis and differ in many aspects from modern rules. At the same time, the aforementioned Tournament of the One-Handed Sword takes place on the tournament square, featuring the best players who have distinguished themselves in previous tournaments. At 12.30 p.m., a permanent event takes place called Grunwaldzkie Wici [Grunwald News]. Its purpose is to present the groups of re-enactors taking part in the event. These groups, called ‘knightly banners’, present their festive, knightly garments (which differ from typical battlefield attire) and are introduced by their ‘commanders’. This is also when you can learn more about the history of the Battle of Grunwald, the most important facts, figures and events preceding the clash and its consequences. The organisers then talk about the idea and history of the battle reconstruction itself. This presentation is followed by another archery tournament on the battlefield and Samowtór, a hand-to-hand combat in pairs.

In my opinion, the most interesting event of the third day is the dress rehearsal for the Great Battle, which is scheduled for the following day. It differs from the dress rehearsals we know from theatre, which are supposed to be an exact recreation of the re-enactment. In this case, the re-enactors appear on the battlefield in the most surprising and unexpected costumes, obviously far removed from the idea of historical re-enactment. Here we may see, not knights with their squires, but unicorns, giant rabbits, vampires, Hollywood actors or other characters from contemporary pop culture. The aim is to surprise the director and the audience. Interestingly, some tourists, unaware of the event, do not hide their indignation and accuse the participants of historical inaccuracies. On the same day, concerts of bands and bards take place. The day ends with the start of the three-day Polish Championships — the Grunwald Horse Knights Tournament, which will culminate in Sunday’s jousting tournament.

On the fourth day, a reconstruction of the great battle traditionally takes place. Before this happens, an artillery tournament occurs, consisting of a variety of tasks and complex competitions. At the same time, a battle tournament for minors is held. Finally, at 12.30 p.m., one of the most important events — the Grunwald Appeal — begins on Monument Hill. This is the most solemn part of the Grunwald Days, attended not only by the organisers and participants, but also by state authorities from Poland and Lithuania, including prime ministers, government members, military commanders, local government officials, scouts, and other invited guests. The ceremony begins with the singing of the national anthems of the Republic of Poland and the Republic of Lithuania. This is followed by speeches from government representatives and the laying of wreaths at the Grunwald Monument. During the ceremony, the first presentation of two swords takes place, handed to reenactors portraying Władysław Jagiełło and Vytautas by actors playing envoys of the Teutonic Order. This act symbolically replicates the pretext for the start of the battle in 1410. Afterwards all the re-enactors have time to prepare for another significant part of Grunwald Days — the great battle scheduled for 3 p.m. How the battle plays out is in accordance with actual historical accounts and is based on a precisely prepared scenario. This part of the event is customarily referred to as a staging or inscenizacja, as there is a great deal of theatricality, acting and effects to impress the almost 100,000 spectators who have been watching the battle every year for the past twenty-five years. The staging takes place in a hollow in the ground so that it can be viewed by a considerable number of people from above. The re-enactors do their best to get close to historical reality, but only a few spectators manage to experience this ‘time travel’. In practice, it is difficult to focus on the profound experience, standing on tiptoes in the crowd and trying to see the wide panorama over the heads of other tourists. Nevertheless, the atmosphere of the event is solemn and the roar of the cannon salvos and the din of the battle can be heard even at a considerable distance. Once the battle is over, the crowd disperses and the re-enactors have time to rest. The day ends with another round of jousting and a fire dance show.

On the last day of the entire event, the final of the jousting tournaments takes place, including a thrilling crushing of lances. The participants and their horses are equipped with full armour to guarantee safety and create an extraordinary visual effect. In the evening, tourists slowly leave the fields of Grunwald, which is not easy due to the still large crowd trying to leave the historical complex by car on the narrow roads. The re-enactors are also on their way — slowly disassembling tents, props, costumes and other equipment. The fields are quiet and waiting for the next anniversary of the famous battle.

Has the spirit of the Middle Ages been captured at Grunwald?

The re-enactment of the Battle of Grunwald and the events and attractions accompanying it are a specific form of caring for cultural heritage in Poland. On the one hand, the memory of the battle and the victory of the Polish-Lithuanian army over the Teutonic Order in 1410 is extremely important from the point of view of national and historical education. On the other hand, however, the re-enactors are not always faithful to historical narratives and the Grunwald Days are taking the form of a mass commercial event. It seems that nowadays, for the participants and organisers of this event, it is more important to capture the general ‘spirit of the Middle Ages’, or rather a specific image of it, than historical accuracy. The educational value recedes into the background here, but it has not been completely neglected. There is a museum on the battlefields of Grunwald, which is still being expanded, presenting artefacts from the battle and the Teutonic Order itself. Here, visitors can learn about the exact course of historical events, read detailed descriptions or watch short films illustrating the content presented. School excursions are also usually directed to the museum. However, during the Grunwald Days, the museum becomes one of many attractions that tourists can choose to visit. It is also worth emphasising that the reconstruction itself and the accompanying elements take the form of a specific cultural heritage — a contemporary phenomenon which for years has been attracting crowds of people wishing to experience time travel’. A journey to the colourful Middle Ages, brave knights, ladies of the court and courageous Teutonic Knights.

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